I just checked carousell ph and not sure if representative yung prices but seems yung ok na sa akin is around 8k:
76mm reflector eq non branded
- problema nito probably yung mount since mahaba yung scope so matagal vibrations
May isang celestron 127mm at 8k:
- mas malaki at branded
- mahirap ito i collimate unlike normal reflectors
Less than half the price if y mount <4k
- di ako masaya nung nakagamit ako y mount
- pero baka meron dito may experience at mag share ng technique on how to use it properly.
Forum Topic
Astronomical Telescope (Made in China)
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Since nabuhay itong thread, some updates:
Kung may goto mount kyo (i.e. nexstar mounts) ang laking bagay once connected sa pc. Ang bilis mag object hopping. In one night dami malolocate agad.
Nexstar SLT mount with custom tripod.
Connected sa pc tablet using rs232-usb adapter cable.
PC controlled using Cartes du Ciel softwate. -
East facing ang bintana daming globular clusters.
Eto naman mga nebula via live stacking:
70mm f300mm (stopped at 40mm) toy telescope (modified).
RT224 camera.
UHC or PoorMansHAlpha filter.
Swan nebula on pmHalpha
Lagoon nebula on pmHalpha
Trifid nebula on pmHalpha
Ring nebula on UHC filter. -
Up na miss ko tong thread na toh hahaha
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Join kayo sa astophotography philippines fb group post niyo dun mga dso niyo. Na miss ko yung copyscope ni sir ernel gusto ko padin gumawa gang ngayon hehehe
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Guys baka may massugest kaung telescope... Para sana sa son ko... Anung model kaya maganda pang bata 4 years old plang xa... Ok kaya ung Celestron travelscope 70? Thanks
-- edited by sephy on May 04 2020, 09:07 PM -
Ano ibang options? Kung ok price wise then c travelscope 70 is good sa requirements mo.
- refractor - less maintenance for beginner at sa bata
- short n small - magaan sa bata and eventually can serve as grab-n-go scope
Limitations.
- weak tripod - kung me matinong dlsr tripod then yun gamitin mo
- 70mm lang. If makakakuha ka at least 80mm short refractor then mas ok as pangmatagalang grab-n-go (may c travelscope 80 na yata)
- suntok sa buwan: kung makaka acquire ka celestron c90 mak or equivalent at good price then best grab-n-go daw ito. Pero mahal talaga ito brand new. -
^thanks check ko ung c90
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Mas madali ba i maintain mga reflector type telescopes?
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Maintenance wise pinakamadali sa akin yung refractor at maksutov-cass. Probably sct pero di pa ako nagkaroon nyan.
Newtonian kailangan matuto magcollimate lalo na kung lagi nilalabas or byahe. -
To be honest nahirapan ako sa collimation lalo na fast reflector.
Laser collimator at chesire gamit ko.
Pero maganda matutunan yan lalo na pag bumili k na malaking scope. Sobrang mahal na refractor pag malaki, kaya tyagain na lng nag collimate ng newtonian. -
Problema ko kasi sir is very humid place namin at talagang perwisyo talaga yung buildup ng molds sa lens. Lahat ng dslr and binocular ko dito nagkaroon na. Ang hirap buksan pa ng mga ito. Nakita ko online na parang nalilinis yung primary mirror Dun kasi unang magiging visible molds katagalan.
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May dry cabinet ka? Worth it mag invest dyan sa case mo. Or start with dry box with dehumidifier crystals.
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Regarding cleaning of lens/mirror, na try ko na pareho pero sa mumurahing scope lng.
- doublet refractor - madali basta ingat sa scratch at yung coating di matanggal
- newtonian - needs collimation after
- triplet refractor cleaning is no for me - servicing lang talaga yan
- mak mirror cleaning - servicing din since mahirap collimation nyan -
M43 lqng meron ako pero di ko pa binaklas lens kasi mukhang complikado. Masisira ko lng.
Binocular depende sa design. Naglinis na din ako ng lens lng pero yung prism di ko alam linisin. At pag di na align ng tama yung prisms sakit sa ulo pag ginamit nakakaduling. -
Note pala malakas lng loob ko mag baklas at linis kung mumurahin or nabili ko as is. Yung mga medyo matino kong gamit naka dry kabinet talaga hehe. If ever papa service ko na lang
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Wala ako dry cabinet sir pero may nakita ako na controlled warm temp storage for lenses ng camera pero nasa 35k ata below. Halos isang magandang dslr na. Tsk.
May link ka sir sa diy dry box with dehumid crsytals? Madaling linisin naman yung reflector type right? Worry ko din yung chromatic abberation ba yun. Pang deep sky ko lang sana at need ko talaga malaking aperture para maliwanag.
Mahina luob ko when fixing those sir. Masyado kasing maselan mga lente. Kaya no go for me. -
Yung dry cabinet ko tig-30L lang.
Bino, eyepieces, mak at small refractors lang nilalagay ko. Dito apexdigital.com.ph nakita ko mga 5k ph baka mas mura pa sa iba. At least mga mamahaling dslr lenses kasya dyan.
Nabasa ko sa iba, pag malaking telescope naman, plastic boxes at sandamakmak na silica gels ang storage.
Saka pag laging nilalabas once a month at napapa arawan di naman daw magkaka molds. -
Yung dehumid crystals na namention ko = silica gels pala naalala ko lang
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Di ako nag a astrophotography. EAA lang hehe. Wala ako tyaga sa post processing.
Base sa nabasa ko, kung mas malaking telescope, mas malaking fl = mas magnified, mas crucial sa mount. So sabi nga nila, invest sa motorized mount preferably equatorial at wag sagarin yung load limit.
Dslr naman mostly widefield at lightweight so pwede non motorized or lightweight alt az mount gaya nung nexstar ko.
Meron ding skywatcher staradventurer baka pwede yun for a start.
Sa astrophoto, more aperture baka exponential din yung cost mainly sa mount. -
Problem ng fast doublet refractor ang chromatic aberration. Issue ko rin yan sa EAA bloated yung stars.
Pero may filters dyan for refractors, like minus violet, yellow, uv/ir depende sa camera type.
Pwede din daw sa post processing but di ko na try since EAA lng ako.
Mas effective sa experience ko yung narrowband filter irrelevant yung CA, kaya target ko rin magka h-alpha filter.
Reflectors wala CA pero may ibang issue.
Mak-cass masyadong slow focal length. Fast newtonian dapat well collimated pero main issue nito is kung makaka focus yung camera mo. Unless newt na specifically designed for camera yan i.e. modified yung mirror location or yung tinatawag na astrograph.
Eventually target ko yung small triplet or ed refractor around 60-80mm.
Why?
Sa EAA maraming deepsky targets actually widefield like yung mga post ko (though small sensor gamit ko) so low focal length much better.
Sa EAA equally or mas important yung f ratio kaysa aperture since stacked naman yan.
Then small scope mas easier sa mount requirements. -
Since may dlsr ka na, next question is ano mga deepsky targets mo initially?
Also ano tracking mount meron ka?
I still suggest to invest sa dry cabinet for your lenses at least.
Then try out a cheap slow achromat refractor for astrophotography on easy targets like orion.
Pwede ka mag start agad without worrying about collimation at kung madumihan/mold yung lens di masakit sa puso at bulsa linisin.
Kung makaka bili ka second hand motorized mount better.
Sa experience mo dito malalaman mo next move ng budget mo...
- small slow apochromat refractor?
- modified sensor dslr on star adventurer?
- narrowband astrophotogaphy?
- big astrograpth newt on heavy mount?
- big mak-cass on small targets?
Or malamang all of the above hehehe. -
You mentioned aperture para mas maliwanag... depende yan sa target mo. I guess galaxy mahirap talaga.
Pero yung mga kuha ko though di refined since EAA lng, was taken using 40-50mm aperture. And short total exposure max 15min total mostly.
Sa astrophotograpphy pwede mong mas patagalin yung total exposure or paramihin yung stacked exposure at may post processing pa yan.
So to dip your hands on it i guess di mo kailangan yung big aperture agad agad, which is proportional sa cost.
Bigger aperture means:
- longer fl., if short fl = higher cost
- heavier scope, if lighter = high cost
- bigger mounts = higher cost -
Thanks sa useful info sir. Baka star clusters or nebulae nalang muna ako mag start. Siguro later narin ako mag mount ng dslr sa telescope pag nagamay ko na sa tracking. MAGANDA sana kung may goto na yung mount para di na ako maghanap pa. Pero mas maganda siguro mag start ako sa manual tracking na telescope. Nag aalangan kasi talaga ako sa molds sa lens. Dapat may dry cabinet kaso baka di magkasya telescope dun. Naghahanap ako ng mga branded telescope locally pero parang mas mura sa states. MAG Susummer na kasi at siguradong madalas clear skies satin at masarap mag view ng objects sa taas.
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MAs maganda ba sa naked eye yang mga kuha mo sa taas sir kesa sa dslr na kuha mo?
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Now if you go with reflector, perhaps fast newt, then learn how to collimate, it is always a good skill eventually. Ang paglilinis naman nasa youtube ang tutorials and can be straightforward. Though again baka di maka focus yung dslr mo so baka need to modify yung primary mirror (i.e. mas papalapitin mo sa secondary and ang possible effect is less effective aperture since baka ma cut ng secondary mirror size yung light path).
Also make sure yung fast newt mo has parabolic mirror. Else wla nga CA pero spherical abberation naman.
At fast newt also have issues sa coma abberation. -
I recently received an old astronomical skyscope from a friend, the unit is still in good shape, but my concern is that the objective lens "the bigger one" has a cloudy stained on the circumference area of the disc, due to old age, matagal na daw ksi nakatambak lang. have not tried to clean the lens yet because I'm not sure what is the best way on how to clean this type of lens.
I believe that someone from TPC has a wide experience and knowledge about this type of issue. Hoping that someone can guide me and give me an expert advice on how to retain the original condition of this disc.
Thank you sa mga astronomers :) -
Mamaya na Total Lunar Eclipse (Blood Moon)
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kaninang mga 5:30AM yun pa lang nakita ko sya na VERTICAL yung QUARTER MOON nya, usually kasi HORIZONTAL, bakit kaya? nag twist na earth pa North ganun kaya yun?
kasi sa europe ko lang nakita yung VERTICAL yung Moon Crest nya