Mayhems pastel dyes last for 3 years in a loop before degradation occurs.
Probabably after 3 years, lumipat na sa acrylics or nag cake na sa mga blocks XD. I tend to avoid dyes overall.
Forum Topic
XSPC watercooling kit users (this is our thread)
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Probabably after 3 years, lumipat na sa acrylics or nag cake na sa mga blocks XD. I tend to avoid dyes overall. -
I\'d say you did an ample amount of research before buying a kit. Most of what you said above is correct.
What fans were you using with the GTS120 Xflow you added to the kit? Because IMHO a 2c drop is nothing spectacular. You would at least expect 4c reduction at maximum load when you added another 120mm radiator on that setup. I have several blackice GTS120 Xflows (all from frozencpu) before, found them not particularly good radiators unless you pair them with high speed noisy fans. (2600-3000+). I replaced all of them with xspc ex 120. Temperatures got lowered by 3c on average and I only paired them with 1600 rpm fans. You can read all the user\'s feedback of different radiators at overclock.net, EX series is one hell of a bang-for-buck radiators.
Also ,I would stay away from cooling dyes unless you are very fond of maintaining your loop. Dyes are just for looks and will eventually become gunk inside your cpu, gpu block , radiator, and pump which means performance lost, and lower lifespan of pump. Colored tubing is much better!
Just my 2 cents. -
Hello! I revised Floyd (my PC) again. this would be Rev. 2.5.1 hehe. now, at 4.6ghz @ 1.275v
Intel XTU benchmark score: 966, 969 and 976 on the third try.
Ive read every article my eyes could see about dyes. all negative. so, colored tubes It is. hehe.
also, learned a few more things that I share to newbies and aspiring enthusiasts:
1. 90 degree elbows impact flow rate and is compared by Martins liquid lab as attaching another 4\' feet of hose for every fitting. and I previously installed 4 of those! bells and whistles rang in my head and I had to reorder the layout! and now, its a total success!
2. never install a watercooling kit in a non-watercooling capable case! hassle talaga! 1 month planning and the continuous revisions with hoses and radiator height and positioning! but, it was never a bother to bleed the pump for like 5 times! hehe. don\'t worry supplier of my kit. you wont hear from me even if this breaks down within the warranty period. if ever there was one. hehe.
3. avoid using a gts120 Xflow if your case is not designed for watercooling and if your case is m-atx form factor. the Black Ice is comparable almost to a 140mm radiator. it has the same height as the width of my Couugar spike!
4. for the last time. go for distilled water + silver killcoil. but, I will test by adding 5 grams of 100% fine silver (at only P60.00/gram. why not!? hehe.) to add to the loops poisonous algae killing capability. just a reminder fellow noobies, once distilled water is added with biocide or a silver killcoil it is no longer a non-conductive liquid. so, be careful ;) (hehe). no worries to the newbie of watercoolers. just buy a funnel. make sure to twist your hose counter-clockwise a bit before you install it into the barb (this is where compression fittings rank above barbs. known for a real nice tight fit and looks to be envied by everyone!). so in the long run, the hose passively tightens the fitting attached to it by a bit. don\'t forget to use clamps! and the reusable clamps come recommended for PC cooling simply because its made out of plastic (im speaking to newbies ok. pro and experienced installers use metal spring clamps and they look really cool!)
5. To the new water cooling enthusiast or the aspiring to be. this is the simple reason to why choose water cooling. if your PC is able to go past 4.4ghz, hate loud fans, hate the heat that expels all across your face and makes your brow sweat from your 3.8ghz overclocked air cooled PC while immersed in virtual combat with games that require your graphics card to heat all the way to 80*c. then the answer is watercooling. constant temps at almost 45% cooler on both the GPU and the CPU!
6. leaks? too many hassles? for cooling and silence this good. Choose the best in watercooling (AFAIK) XSPC. only peace of mind. chose the kits. these always provide a good setup and you can always add or subtract to your hearts (wallets) desire.
7. pump might break? I remember I have like 6 spare performance fan and my wife is due to go to HK. might as well order a Laing D5 reservoir/pump combo. as ive said, if you have a 4.4ghz capable PC and want to max out its limit without the CPU throttling. watercooling is and will remain the king (for now. the peltier/condenser cooling is making a comeback with the upcoming broadwell chip. at -48*c. it will cool the broadwell chip better. and we\'ll see 6ghz in households soon. and of course P250,000.00 rigs!)!
http://www.overclock.net/t/1457426/radiator-size-estimator
To answer your question sir snakeeaterz:
Hello sir. I was enticed (misled?) by the ad that says it doesnt impact flow rate. but, was discovered to slow down the velocity of the water. lower PSI than most Xflow or U flow radiators due to the rally small tubes (1.2mm) the Black Ice GTS120 Xflow Radiator as compared to 2.2 mm tubes of its competitors. XSPC now has an ex-120 crossflow now. I just wanted to try this even if it was 20% more expensive than a u-flow XSPC EX-120. just wanted to know for myself what this 120mm radiator has against its most well known competitor. XSPC.
<click here for link>
it says that the traits of the xflow is low restriction compared to dual pass and is a great add on for slow pumps like this X20 750 of mine. I guess better for a loop with plenty of blocks? but, needs faster fans to cool better. also noticed that I have an elbow in front of that particular rad as well. maybe it may have slowed down the flow rate enough for the radiator to cool the water a bit more than usual.
my fan is an old white Silverstone with that knob at the front of the case. I want able to utilize it with my 3 ear old rig for its high rpms (2800+/-) and rpm/db capacity. it was so annoying to hear. and I had to manually adjust it every single annoying time (hehe)! so, it survived after 3 years in its mausoleum in the shed. hehe. based on BI Xflows box. it requires slow fans. but, I doubt it since the fins are so many my Silverstone had to rev up to 1900rpms to properly penetrate the fins. this is also without a shroud. so, roughly about 20% of the radiator is left without a fan.
Tested 10 min rounds with Intel XTU stress test and the cooling improved by a large margin over my previous tubing layout. ambient room temp 37*c and an average 26*c delta temp all across the test. maxed at 75*c for a few times and for a few seconds only. but I will have to wait till tomorrow to make sure no bubbles are present to ensure a correct analysis of the rigs cooling capacity.
and your 2 cents is worth 12000 to me. hehe. will avoid dyes at all costs!
-- edited by MDINIGHT on Aug 21 2014, 11:54 PM -
I just wanted to try this even if it was 20% more expensive than a u-flow XSPC EX-120.
just remembered. im a newbie. so, I don\'t have anything to compare it with. hehe. time will tell if im going to replace it with an RX120 or not. antay mode pa sa pera pambili ng GPU block.
-- edited by MDINIGHT on Aug 21 2014, 11:22 PM
Great read!
http://martinsliquidlab.i4memory.com/MartinsRadiatorEstimators.html
-- edited by MDINIGHT on Aug 21 2014, 11:27 PM
good AM TPC!
this is the second of 2 straight consecutive rounds with a 3 min break in between.
-- edited by MDINIGHT on Aug 22 2014, 09:38 AM -
are you using the stock pump ng XSPC kit mo? Better save up for your next pump. Napupundi mga yan around 3-4 years kapag laging naka on PC mo. Get an industrial grade D5 or equivalent
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are you using the stock pump ng XSPC kit mo? Better save up for your next pump. Napupundi mga yan around 3-4 years kapag laging naka on PC mo. Get an industrial grade D5 or equivalent
no prob po. will save up for a jingway 1200dp. ang gusto ko talaga yung XSPC D5 PWM pump <click here for link>. kaso, walang meron nito sa pinas. mga supplier ng XSPC! puhleez make this happen!
bale yung outlet ng pump/reservoir magiging inlet ng pump na bago with the help of a (male to male adapter fitting) pagkasira nito. saying din ang res nito at Malaki laki ito. knowing rubber gaskets. it wont degrade if the water is not corrosive and exposed to sunlight. so, yung patay na motor andun lang sa loob. hehe.
OT singit lang po:
I now officially have a stable overclock. [email protected] RAM @ 1866mhz w/67*c total average temperature. core #0 maxed out at 76*c while the peak temp of core #4 maxed 68*c all throughout the test. ambient air is around 35*c. no exterior fans pointed at the PC. just the case and cpu fans on the rs240 and the gts120 xflow.
XTU tested for an hour and it survived.
noticed that the sensors were giving me false readings with 1.275v. so, I had to lower the voltage down and the sensors are now doing fine. reviewed my knowledge about OC and these are my findings if overclocked improperly:
1. corrupted data. - unstable RAM and base clock setting with lack/over abundance of voltage.
2. misfiring (improper term?) sensors. - voltage too high
3. shut down. - voltage too high which in turn is the primary source of overheating.
-- edited by MDINIGHT on Aug 23 2014, 01:26 PM -
ang gusto ko talaga yung XSPC D5 PWM pump <click here for link>. kaso, walang meron nito sa pinas. mga supplier ng XSPC! puhleez make this happen!
Meron benta dito na mga Swiftech MCP655 / EK D5. Same oem pinanggalingan ng mga yun.. Laing. Meron din yung mga vario version
-- edited by Thakker on Aug 26 2014, 03:19 PM -
^ bago nila yung PWM version, sa mga gusto ng PWM na power supply.
lahat same lang Made by Laing from Hungary -
Ah ok.. PWM pala di ko na basa. Oo bago nga yan.. gusto ko din niyan ah, may speed control :0
-- edited by Thakker on Aug 26 2014, 07:11 PM -
some experiments with the Xflow. turned the fans off my rs240 and used 1500rpm fans on the rasa kit with XTU to 15mins @ 4.6ghz. tumama ng 80*c max. around average of 46*c delta temps. nagiinit pa din kaya binago ko uli ang loop for the 5th time. hehe. ayus lang enjoy ako at gusto ko I-maxout ang temps with a shorter loop. napansin ko masmalamig ang cpu (41*c delta) kapag. outlet ng cpui block ay ang rs240 na kaagad tapos nilipat ko ang xspc fans ko sa xflow. getting better temps than ever at 41*c delta. in an A/C room. delta can go down by as much as 35*c while performing XTU cpu stress test for 15 mins.
nagiinit ang mga vrms. jk, trick of the eye.
remind ko lang mga gustong magwatercool:
using an intel i5 4690k, expect average temps on stock with 10 runs of IBT set to very high (4gb ram) to be around 20-25*c delta temps with an XSPC Rasa x20 750 rs240 kit. :) -
Naalala ko din dati ganyan ako ka OC sa temps ko. Nowadays, I just slap the thing and let it run XD.
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kabisado na ninyo po kasi sir. hehe. upgrade uli para panibagong experience. get ready for broadwell. hehe. im just enthusiastic after 2 years married to an amd phenom 2x6 1100t with heat+noise and ram restrictions. that\'s all. masbagay ang water ngayon than ever before. esp., if one uses high cpu speeds. walang kabog kabog o alala na baka maprito ang mga components.
my X20 750 pump. no plate so I can see the swirling of the water in my room floor. :) -
Hi Guys, I am very interested on this product.. could you please tell me where to buy?
TIA :) -
Changed my rig and bought a legitimate water cooling capable case. kaya binili ko na ang pinakagustong gusto ko. the NZXT H440 silent case. Changed the scheme and the layout to match the case. pwede na pang rig battle. ;) amateur edition. lolz!
Classic lang ito mga bossing. just a clean setup. ngayon, katabi ko nalang sa lamesa at halos di ko siya marinig. :D. Iba talaga kapag nakuha ang gusto, may peace of mind.
Meet Apsara.
Replaced the XSPC Rasa with an XSPC Raystorm. And I do say it was the best change I have made! The water flow is so much efficient! Got it 2nd hand and cleaned and replaced the gaskets. Iba talaga anf Raystorm.
Results with newly applied TIM:
Rasa: 76*c peak temp, average temps 68*c
Raystorm: 73*c peak temp. Ok. 3*c difference only? hehe. the water flow is so much better that the heat is easily dissipated out faster. hence, lowering overall temps down to 63*c
TIM used:
Rasa - Noctua NT-H1
Raystorm - Arctic silver 5. this TIM has a curing time wherein temps will drop even lower as time progresses. Its quite dangerous to use that it has a capacitive nature. avoid applying onto 2 or 3 VRM pins or any pin as much as possible.
Ill be expecting better temps soon. and, simply use a 360mm rad. all games and all apps wont be heating up the pc anytime soon with this setup! haha!
-- edited by MDINIGHT on Sep 16 2014, 10:30 PM -
Parang commercial ng MSi. hehe.
Delta temps:
Average is 39*c
from lowest temps to peak temps. still under scrutiny.
-- edited by MDINIGHT on Sep 17 2014, 12:02 AM -
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MDINIGHT Send Message View User Items on August 29, 2014 10:23 AM
kabisado na ninyo po kasi sir. hehe.
Not really hehe.. I just felt that the few 1 degree or .5 degree difference for the whole hassle and gastos kaka upgrade isn\'t really that worth it. But that is just me hehe. -
haha even with the rasa same pa rin CPU temps ko running at 40c idle and normal browsing mode. pag games there\'s an improvement (with the help of the additional rad). from 55-60c, down to 50-55c :)
so I\'ve added an RS120 120mm rad and replaced my larkooler CPU block with the rasa. I guess my larkooler block is just as good as the rasa. it it definite that the additional rad who helped improved the temps during load.
here\'s my improved loop - pump > 240mm rad > gtx 760 > 120mm rad > i7-3770 > res
top view
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@mordath
for cpu blocks you really won\'t get any significant performance improvements unless you chose blocks that have better flowrate like the xspc raystorm. seems like your pump is connected to your mobo fan connector. di ko marerecommend pag nakakabit sa mobo pump mo. masisira agad either yung pump or yung mosfet ng mobo. -
for cpu blocks you really won\'t get any significant performance improvements unless you chose blocks that have better flowrate like the xspc raystorm. seems like your pump is connected to your mobo fan connector. di ko marerecommend pag nakakabit sa mobo pump mo. masisira agad either yung pump or yung mosfet ng mobo.
never thought about it before. but yeah, sa SYSFAN nakaconnect yung pump ko. is there a better place to power it into? -
directly from the psu is always the best. Afaik, up to 1amp yung mobo fan connectors.. and yeah, maaring mag dulot yan ng problem in the long run if you connect your pump to it.